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KAYA PRO Performance Analytics Explained

KAYA PRO is designed to unlock the best climber in you. It consists of performance analytics, tools and features to help you send faster and more often, discover your next project, and track your performance and progression. 


WORKLOAD


Workload is a combination of your volume and intensity when climbing. An increase in average workload (over the course of 3+ sessions) means you’ve increased the total volume or intensity of the session. Workload allows climbers to intentionally build fitness and induce peak performances.

To learn more about Workload and how it's calculated, click here.

VELOCITY


Velocity refers to the rate at which you send climbs. This is measured by the average number of attempts or sessions to a send at a given grade level. An increase in Velocity means you’re sending climbs in fewer attempts or sessions than before, which indicates an increase in total climbing ability. In the short-term, sending faster or slower is not always a sign of success or failure, however. Changes in Velocity can indicate coming breakthroughs, performance peaks, or overloading and fatigue.

To learn more about Velocity and how it's calculated, click here.

TOPS RATE


Tops Rate measures your success rate. It’s like a baseball batting average for climbing. Of the climbs you try, how many do you climb successfully? A Tops rate of 100% would mean that a climber sent every single climb they attempted during that time period. A score of 50% means that a climber successfully sent half of the routes they attempted. It is important to note that Tops Rate is calculated using the number of distinct climbs sent or attempted and NOT the number of total sends and attempts. For instance, if a climber attempts a single route 10 times in a session and then sends on her 11th attempt, her Top Rate for the session will be 100% because she successfully sent 100% of the routes she attempted. 
To learn more about Tops Rate and why you should track it, click here.


INTENSITY


A grade v1 boulder problem for someone whose top Limit send is v1 is very intense. They will expend max energy sending this climb. But that same v1 is easy for a climber whose Limit is v10. The objective challenge of a climb is represented by the grade it’s given. But that grade does not tell you how challenging that climb will subjectively be for you. And understanding grades from the perspective of energy expenditure is helpful when trying to select climbs for a training session. If a coach asks you to work within your Hard Zone or your 70-90% for 10x attempts to build strength and capacity, how do you know which climbs fall into that range?  KAYA’s Intensity measure personalizes a climb's difficulty relative to energy expenditure for you. 


To learn more about Intensity and how it's calculated, click here.

LEVELS (BADGES)


Climbing Level is basically how hard you consistently climb. KAYA tracks and awards Level badges for three dimensions:


1. Flashing first try

2. Sending hard intensity projects fast

3. Sending limit intensity or lifetime projects at your cutting edge


Progressing at climbing demands development of many movement skills: strength, mobility, and on-the-wall tactics. While you can see wins in all these areas that are not reflected by your top grades, ultimately your Climbing Level is reflected by your climbing, not your 20mm max weight hang or your side splits. Your ability to Flash, send climbs in your “Hard” Intensity Zone, and reach for a breakthrough at your Limit, reflect your present form—your climbing “level” right now.

To learn more about the different Levels and Badges you can earn, click here.


SESSION TIMER


Even the strongest climbers need to rest in between attempts in order to climb their hardest, but it takes some playing around to figure out what rest period works best for each climber. The KAYA attempt timer is an amazing tool that can help you zero in on your ideal rest time in between burns.



To learn more about the session timer and why it's such an important tool, click here.


NEW AND IMPROVED FILTERS


KAYA PRO offers a wide range of new and improved filters so you can sort through climbs and find exactly what you're looking for as efficiently as possible. You can now even filter for beta videos from climbers with similar heights and wingspans as you! Shorties rejoice!




NEW DATA VISUALIZATIONS


KAYA PRO introduces brand new ways to visualize and interpret your climbing data!

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